Warm the milk to 105-110°F and bring the eggs to room temperature—these temperatures are crucial for the yeast to activate properly and for the dough to develop evenly. In a large mixing bowl, combine 3 3/4 cups flour, 1/2 cup sugar, 2 1/2 tsp yeast, 1/2 tsp cinnamon, 1/4 tsp freshly grated nutmeg, and 1/2 tsp salt. In a separate bowl, mix the warmed milk with 4 tbsp softened butter and 2 room-temperature eggs, stirring until well combined. Pour the wet mixture into the dry ingredients and beat vigorously for 3 minutes using an electric mixer or by hand—this develops gluten and incorporates air, which helps the buns rise beautifully.

Finely chop the candied fruit into 1/4-inch pieces and combine it with 1/2 cup raisins and 1 tsp orange zest in a small bowl. Stir this fruit mixture into the dough from Step 1 until evenly distributed—I like to do this by hand to ensure the fruit doesn't get crushed and remains visible throughout the buns. Gradually add the remaining flour (about 1/2 cup) to the dough, mixing until a shaggy dough forms that pulls away from the sides of the bowl.

Turn the dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead for 7 minutes until the dough becomes smooth, elastic, and springs back when poked. This develops the gluten structure needed for proper rise and texture. Shape the dough into a tight ball, place it in a lightly greased bowl, cover with a damp towel, and let rest for 15 minutes. This rest period helps the gluten relax and allows the yeast to begin its work.

Grease a baking dish (9x13 inches or similar size works well for 12 buns). Divide the dough into 12 equal pieces and roll each piece into a tight ball between your palms—this creates surface tension that helps the buns rise upward rather than spreading outward. Arrange the balls in the greased baking dish in a 3x4 pattern, cover with a damp towel, and let rise in a warm place for 1 1/2 hours until the buns have puffed up and are just touching each other. While the buns rise, preheat your oven to 350°F.

While the buns are proofing, prepare the cross paste by whisking together 1/2 cup flour, 2 tbsp powdered sugar, and 1/4 cup water, adding the water slowly until you achieve a thick, pipeable paste—it should be thicker than pancake batter but thinner than cookie dough. Transfer the paste to a piping bag fitted with a small round tip. Once the buns have finished rising and the oven is preheated, pipe the mixture across each bun to create a cross shape. Bake for 30-35 minutes until the buns are deep golden brown and the crosses are set.

While the buns are still warm from the oven, prepare a quick glaze by whisking together 1/4 cup sifted powdered sugar and 1 1/2 tsp milk until smooth. Brush this glaze generously over the hot buns—I always sift the powdered sugar first to prevent lumps that won't dissolve into the milk. The warm buns will absorb the glaze, creating a subtle sweet shine and tender crumb. Let the buns cool slightly before serving.